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"How I Do It" 08/29/2012
by Larry Jett
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Materials needed: the shocks, several 36 inch plastic zip ties, an extra 3/8 inch socket ( a 14 mm works just fine, after all, why do we need any metric stuff?) and a threaded pulley belt tightener.
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Using your Dremel or file, cut two opposing notches in the top of the socket. This will locate your zip-tie when you despand (opposite of expand) your shocks . Make the notches deep as you can and wider than the zip-tie.
Step one: Remove the bolt that holds the rubber biscuit that prevents the suspension from dropping its fullest. You cannot remove the old shock unless you do this. Remove the biscuit and let the spindle and shock drop down completely. With a ¼ inch wrench holding the top of the shock from turning, remove the nut that holds the shaft of the shock on top and push the shaft down into the hole completely. Pretty important that you use a Dremel or wire brush to cleanse the threads on the top of the shock before using these wrenches as they are pretty groddy after all the years in the elements. Remove the nuts and bolt at bottom of old shock. Remove shock.
Step two: Measure the bottom bolt locating width of the shock you removed (1.25 inches?) and grind off enough of the new KYB bottom locators so the new shock will fit between the goalposts on your car at the bottom as your old shock did. Then install the new underneath washer and the underneath rubber bushing and thread the zip-tie through the bottom bolt mount and over the top of your modified 3/8 inch socket on the top as per photo. Mash hard to shrink the length and pull the zip-tie tight. It does not have to be fully despanded but needs to duplicate the photo. Look three times at the photo, thread the zip and mash the shock small, once. These things are tough, which is why we bought them.
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Step three: Insert the shackled shock up through the hole at the top after you have removed and discarded the old o.e.m top washer and rubber bushing. You cannot do anything at the top as the zip-tie is in the way so the bottom must be attached first. If you are lucky and have a helper, the helper can cut the zip-tie near the bottom as you prepare to push a Phillips screw driver through the bolt hole at the bottom as the shock expands downward with great pressure. You must be quick to catch the shock as it expands. Should you not get the screw driver in the hole as it expands, the best way to re-position the bottom end to where it belongs is with the belt tightening tool. Other procedures may work but it is a hassle. How the pros do this has not been revealed to your author.
click to enlarge Step four: Remove the cut zip-tie. I used a crow-bar and zip-ties located with vice-grips to catch the top of the compressing zip-tie and lever it out through the top.
click to enlarge You then remove your socket and assemble the top rubber bushing and washer, and install top nut. If the top of the shock rod is not centered in the hole, the belt tightener can be put into service here as well. Reinstall the rubber biscuit on the control arm.
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Time for a nap and/or refreshment.
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