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Q: What is the correct radiator
for my 1960 300?
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A: #1903358 for A/C, #1904808
without A/C. For 1961, #1904811 for A/C, #1904808 without A/C.
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Q: Where can I get brass freeze
plugs for my 1961 300 block?
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A: Pioneer (Barnes Group) has
these under #EP-14-B (1-5/8”). These are the saucer type,
not the cup type.
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Q: The gauges (oil, temp, gas)
keep burning out on my 1960 300. I have replaced the oil gauge
that supposedly controls the voltage. What is wrong?
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A: 1960 had two types of oil
gauges. One made by Stewart Warner with internal voltage regulator
and one by Chrysler with an external regulator attached to the
back of the speedometer housing. If you use the Chrysler gauge
without the regulator, 12V current will blow out the oil, temp,
and gas gauges. The voltage regulator limits 7.2 volts to the
gauges.
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Q: The distributor for my ’57
300 is beyond repair and I can’t find a replacement. Any
ideas?
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A: Yes, locate one from a 1957 or
1958 New Yorker or Imperial. They are completely interchangeable
with only extremely slight differences. Also, an early low-block
273, 318 dual point distributor is almost a drop-in except the
shaft is 1” shorter than the hemi. If the shaft on your
distributor is OK, make an exchange and change the vacuum fitting
on the chamber from hose type to fitting type and use the chamber
spring and washers from yours.
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Q: My starter sometimes stays
engaged when the ignition key is in the run position. Why?
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A: Could be that the small return
spring on the end of the plunger has lost its tension, or that it
is broken. A solenoid repair kit is available through NAPA
(#STK12) for about $10. Fits ’56 through ’61 direct
drive starters.
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Q: I would like to know what are
the original and the after market tail light lens identifications
for the 1957 300.
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A: Original lens is marked CHRCH
at bottom of reflector, AL at the top of reflector. Left side has
part number 168993LT and right has 1689932RH on rear edge of lens.
After market has CY4 below reflector with VB at top of lens for
the left lens, and for the right lens has CY3 with VB at top.
Another lens is CY4 with TMC above reflector and VB at top (left);
right is CY3 with TMC above reflector and VB at top.
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Q: You say the 1960, 1961, 1962
clocks can’t be converted to quartz because of
electroluminesence incompatibility?
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A: Foot-in-mouth here, I’m
afraid. I’ve been made aware of a quartz changeover to
original operation by Kohler Clock Shop, 1930 E. Colorado Blvd.,
Pasadena CA, (818) 792-8991. Cost is $100 including shipping.
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Q: The windshield wiper switch on
my ’62 300 is bad and the dealers don’t have any.
Where can I get a new one?
A: Phone your local NAPA store and
order Echlin #WS6456 (Chrysler #2084267) or visit some friendly
junkyard. A good used ’61 will work also. ’60 will not
work because it works on vacuum. ’61 & ’62 have an
electrical switch piggyback on the main wiper switch.
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Q: Looking for brake shoes at swap
meets really confuse me. Prices range from $8 per axle to $25, but
there seem to be many variations for 2-1/2” x 12”
drums.
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A: Below I will show you the
differences. Also, relined shoes by various companies are in the
$50 to $70 range, but you can specify what oversize to put on
depending on how much metal must be taken off the drums, then get
shoes arced to the correct drum turned size.
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